The Iriki National Park located in southern Morocco stands out for its vast desert spaces. It is the bearer of a great cultural richness marked by the life and history of the nomads, fascinating and varied landscapes yet still little known to travellers. Thanks to our guide who grew up in these lands and who shares with passion all the secrets of this territory, you will discover the specificities of these places for a journey through the ages and through the great expanses that leave unforgettable memories.
The figures of the Iriqui Natural Park
The park is part of the Souss Massa region, Tata province, and extends from Foum Zguid to M'Hamid El Ghizlane, between the Drâa wadi and the south of the Anti Atlas, over a territory of 123,000 hectares. .
It was created in 1994 with the aim of preserving animal species and rehabilitating the wetlands in the center of the dry lake, where desertification is increasingly intensifying.
Iriki National Park is located 150km south of Ouarzazate and 80km southwest of Zagora. The main roads from the biggest cities like Agadir, Marrakech or Ouarzazate leading to Foum Zguid are easily passable with any passenger car. From Foum Zguid, you can access Lake Iriki and the dunes by 4x4 or motorbike via stony and sandy tracks.
Almost half of the surface of the park is covered by sand dunes including Erg El Mhazil where it is possible to go for a bivouac in unspoiled nature, with an incredible view of the Jbel Bani in the distance and the dune landscapes the other.
The fauna of Iriki National Park
Iriqui National Park is home to a variety of wildlife specific to this desert and mountainous region of Morocco: the dorcas gazelle, the cuffed sheep, the striped hyena, the oubaras bustard, the monitor lizard, the lizard, the chameleon, the whiptails, serpents and scorpions. There are also many birds, one of the most emblematic of which is the so-called traveller's bird, recognizable by its white and black plumage and melodious song.
Some of these animals are easily observed, such as the traveling bird or the lizards, but for the most part you have to know how to be patient and discreet to come across them. The walks and treks that we offer at DESERT FOUM ZGUID are the best way to get around the desert because they will take you to more remote places, so you may be lucky enough to see the elegant gazelles in the distance, but this is not guaranteed because we never know what nature has in store for us.
In recent years, several formerly extinct species have been reintroduced in the Iriqui Natural Park such as the Oryx, the Addax and since 2023 the red-necked ostrich. They have managed to reproduce but this balance remains fragile and constantly threatened.
In winter, when the bottom of the old lake Iriki fills with a little water, it becomes a place of passage for migratory birds such as the pink flamingo, storks and coots. However, the winters are less and less rainy and it is becoming rarer to see these birds in this area.
There are also herds belonging to the nomads and which move freely under the supervision of the shepherd: dromedaries, goats, sheep, donkeys. You can easily approach these peaceful animals.
The different natural spaces of Iriqui National Park
This vast space is made up of very varied landscapes. From Foum Zguid, by the track, we approach the tabular plateaus, these thousand-year-old mountains with flat summits, one of which in the shape of a tagine is easily recognizable.
The part of the dry lake of Iriki forms a vast plain of dry land where we still find the presence of salt which forms a light white crust on the surface of the cracked earth.
All around, the stony steppes are dotted with acacia raddiana while the dunes welcome the tamarisk trees which offer much appreciated shade under the desert sun.
Much of Iriki National Park is made up of sand dunes, the beginning of the Sahara which then extends to the Red Sea. There are present the most beautiful and highest dunes of Morocco, the best known of which are those of Erg Chegaga. This dune area includes different Erg: Erg El Mhazil, Erg El Ghoule, Erg Chegaga, Erg Laalem, Erg El Haj Ahmed.
The oases also punctuate the landscapes. They are important places in these desert expanses because they bring water that is so precious for people, herds and wildlife.
The geological heritage of this region is fascinating. For example, you can observe the volcanic formations of the Djebel Bani Geopark to the north or find fossils, prehistoric vestiges of aquatic life of yesteryear.
From M’Hamid to Foum Zguid we thus travel through all these expanses which evolve over the kilometers and create a total change of scenery.
Rock engravings and paintings in Iriqui National Park
The archaeological heritage is also unique in this region with the presence of rock engravings and paintings which would date from the Neolithic, 6th/7th millennium BC, but it remains very difficult to date them with certainty. The rock carvings are specific to southern Morocco and in particular to the Iriki National Park. They are mainly found around the village of Zaouiat Sidi Abdenabi and in the mountains of Djebel Bani. They often represent the animals that lived there at that time such as zebras, rhinos and ostriches. Other engravings represent signs which could not be deciphered until now and keep all their mystery. The cave paintings made from ocher earth very often take up the representation of the free man.
The dry lake of Iriki
This lake, which once covered about 80km2, was the second largest lake in Africa. It was fed by the Drâa wadi. There was a multitude of fish that the population caught on board their small wooden boats, a setting that is difficult to imagine today!
Several factors have led to the gradual drying up of Lake Iriki.
The northern part of the lake where the waters of the Draa first arrived suffered progressive natural silting up as the wind pushed the desert sand towards its entrance. This phenomenon is common in the desert. This region also had to deal with the proliferation of horseflies around the wetlands of the lake, which had become a real problem for the nomads who saw their herds of camels decimated. The Noaji tribe has therefore, on several occasions, tried to sand up the entrance to the lake to put an end to the presence of horseflies.
But it was in 1971 with the construction of the El Mansour Eddhabi dam that the drying up of the lake accelerated. The waters of the river were then diverted upstream from the lake, near Ouarzazate in order to irrigate crops and provide water to the populations of the region of Ouarzazate and Zagora.
The drop in rainfall and the years of drought in Iriqui National Park have reinforced the complete drying up of the lake. The bottom of the lake now only fills up during rainy winters, benefiting wildlife and migratory birds which are becoming rarer.
Erg Chegaga, the erg with the highest dune in Morocco
The Erg Chegaga is part of the vast expanse of sand dunes known as the Erg El Mhazil. Originally, this erg was called Erg Labidlia, named after the ancient black slaves who used to climb the highest dune at nightfall to play music expressing their painful condition of slavery. Next to the highest dune, you can find Labidlia Srera, the "small" dune. The name Chigaga gradually replaced it as tourism developed, taking the name of the place where fields were cultivated to the north of these dunes.
This erg is part of the Iriki National Park and is located 75 km from Foum Zguid. To reach it, you have to cross a large part of the dried-up plains of Lake Iriki. At its entrance, tamarisk trees are abundant, and then you can access various bivouac sites, ranging from the simplest to the most luxurious. The tallest and most iconic dune rises to a height of 300m. You can climb it on foot and admire the sunset with a panoramic view of the surrounding dunes.
Erg El Mhazil, the desert that remains wild
This erg gets its name from the nomadic tribe that owns the land and once established its nomadic camps there. It is also known as the 'sea of sand.' Here begins the Sahara and its elegant dunes. Erg El Mhazil offers breathtaking views of the dried-up Iriki lake and its vast plains. To the north, Djebel Bani unfolds its long ribbon of mountains, while to the south, one can easily catch a glimpse of the mountains marking the border with Algeria, located just a few kilometers away.
This place has maintained its natural aspect thanks to responsible and environmentally respectful tourism. Even within the few permanent bivouacs, one can still experience the tranquility of the desert, conducive to disconnecting and appreciating these spaces with a magical ambiance.
Zaouiat Sidi Abdenabi village
In the natural park of Iriqui, this is the only existing village. Nowadays, it has around a hundred inhabitants, far from the number of nomads that once lived there. Over the years, most villagers have chosen to move to larger cities for more comfort and better job opportunities. The few children in the village attend the small school in the town center, funded by the government. The village is named after its former marabout, Sidi Abdenabi, the founder of the place. He was a holy man rich in knowledge, promoting Quranic education and possessing extensive knowledge of herbal medicine. During your visit to the village, you can discover his tomb. Recently, the remains of an ancient village in the oasis were found, likely covered by water. This hypothesis may explain the presence of the old ksar (fortified village) on the village's heights, protected from rising waters. The village was built around the oasis, where subsistence agriculture has developed thanks to a sophisticated irrigation system. Water is shared among different family plots and extracted from the main well by a pump powered by solar panels. They cultivate seasonal vegetables, dates, and cereals such as wheat and lentils. These cereals are also sown around the village, at the foot of the mountain, and can grow during rainy years under the watchful eye of the farmers who keep goats and camels away from these valuable crops so tempting for the freely roaming herds. These crops primarily serve to feed the village inhabitants, and a small portion of the harvest is sold in the markets of Foum Zguid for additional income. The villagers also rely on occasional livestock sales. The second resource for the villagers is tourism, particularly ecotourism. It highlights the region's remarkable natural heritage to preserve it, pass it on to future generations, and perpetuate its rich culture. Ecotourism is also an ethical form of tourism where local populations and every actor involved directly benefit from this activity, enabling them to sustain their livelihoods with integrity and respect. By participating in bivouacs, excursions, overnight stays, or even just passing by to enjoy the hospitality of the nomadic guides and hosts of Lake Iriki, travelers contribute to maintaining the populations and their culture in their natural environment. The guesthouse, "La Petite Maison du Lac Iriki," allows visitors to stay right next to the village, where they will be welcomed by the nomads and share their culture with great hospitality. Every year, the village holds its Moussem, a traditional festival where nomads gather from all around to participate. It's an occasion for trading and socializing. The festival currently takes place at the end of October or early November, or in spring, depending on the Ramadan dates.
The Mhazil tribe
The Mhazil tribe consists of approximately 12,000 nomads, direct descendants of the marabout Sidi Abdenabi since the 15th century. This holy man settled in these lands due to their prosperity and natural wealth, abundant in water and vegetation. He acquired these lands officially through property deeds in exchange for gold, enabling him to develop and prosper his tribe on an area of about 100 km².
The Mhazil people are Sahrawis, cousins of the larger Reguibat tribe, and descendants of the Charg branch. The Reguibat tribe now occupies a significant part of Western Sahara, south of Morocco.
In the past, the Mhazil tribe engaged in salt trading, where caravans of men and camels crossed the desert for long days until reaching Timbuktu to exchange their precious goods. In the desert of the Iriki National Park, there are still remnants of that prosperous era, such as buried traces of what was likely an ancient market (souk) in the Erg Ghoule. Many arrowheads can still be found under the sand, bearing witness to the vibrancy of these places during the time of great caravan expeditions.
The Iriki lake was a coveted territory due to its strategic location and the abundance of sacred water, making it a place of great wealth. The wildlife was also abundant, and the presence of a large number of ostriches allowed for their breeding, further strengthening the tribe's economic activities
The sacred oasis and the oases of the Iriki desert
Oases play a significant role in desert landscapes and in the lives of nomads who maintain these places.
The sacred oasis of Oum Lâalag is one of the largest and most well-known in this part of the desert. It was a favored location by nomads on the route to Tombouctou, located about 15 km from the Chigaga dunes.
Over the past twenty years, the tourist attraction to this site has significantly increased. There is now a hotel, and the oasis has been enclosed by a surrounding wall. It has become a popular stopover for tourist circuits from Marrakech to Erg Chegaga.
Among the oases in the Iriqui National Park, we can mention Omih Salah Oasis, Zaouia Oasis, El Grizime Oasis, Chabbi Oasis, and Laarjimia Oasis, which you can visit starting from Foum Zguid. During excursions with DESERT FOUM ZGUID, it is customary to take a break or even offer a picnic in the shade of the palm trees at these oases. In the background, the tabular mountains create a fascinating backdrop. With a bit of luck, you may encounter a herd of camels coming to drink from the well..
Tourism in the Iriqui National Park
In these vast sand dunes, tourism has developed, offering travelers the opportunity to spend one or more nights in bivouacs set up in the hollows of the dunes.
While access from M’Hamid to Erg Chegaga may see a higher tourist influx, access to the desert from Foum Zguid to Erg El Mhazil is more focused on responsible tourism. Despite being lesser-known, the desert from Foum Zguid is actually the closest access to the dunes from Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Agadir. The uniqueness of this part of the desert lies in its wild nature, and ecotourism plays a significant role in the region's development. This is the approach adopted by DESERT FOUM ZGUID, which offers stays deeply rooted in the respect for nature and the local communities, promoting cultural and ethical tourism.
Travelers can rely on our local guide to organize a desert journey and discover the beauty of the diverse environments within the Iriqui National Park, from sand dunes to rocky plains, experiencing it all through bivouacs or trekking activities..